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Tabitha Tickletooth
with an introduction by
Alan Davidson
224 pp; 120x190mm; paperback
ISBN 0907325882 £12.99
REVIEWS
It would be wrong to say this was extensively covered in the British
press. But it was the exquisitely chosen Christmas presentation of the
writer Bea Wilson to Derek Cooper on the Christmas Day edition of the BBC’s
The Food Programme. That showed taste I thought.
Link to four sample recipes
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This pseudonymous book was published in 1860, provoked by
an exchange of correspondence in The Times in the previous year
on the relative merits of English and French cookery and on the best system
for arranging the service of dinner: to be or not to be à la
Russe.

It is full of sound sense. There is lots of discussion of the best way
to plan a meal, serve a meal, devise recipes, equip a kitchen, light a
dining-room, buy furniture at the outset of married life, and generally
comport yourself at home. There is much thought about French and English
cookery, without chauvinism or prejudice, and there are excellent recipes.
Puddings and soups are particularly strong suits. These tend to address
the basics, not the curlicues, of household cookery, and are attended with
intelligent comments about getting things right at the outset. 'The late
Lord Dudley truly said, "A good soup, a small turbot, a neck of venison,
and an apricot tart, is a dinner fit for an emperor." Let, then, your dinner
be based on this principle, for in proportion to its smallness ought to
be its excellence both as to the quality of its materials and its cookery.
Big dinner, honest opinion.
This is a facsimile edition, although the impression has been enlarged
beyond a true facsimile in order to make it easier to read. The most celebrated
living authority on British culinary history, Alan Davidson, contributes
an introduction to this first-rate overview of mid-Victorian dining as
well as identifying the man behind Tabitha Tickletooth: the actor Charles
Selby. |
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