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Terence Scully
628 pp; 174 x 246 mm; 2 B&W illustrations; Hardback
ISBN 1-903018-41-2 £40.00
Terence Scully is Emeritus Professor of French at the Wilfrid Laurier
University, Ontario. He specialises in medieval French language and literature,
and is the author of The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages, and
has translated Le Vivendier, Le Viandier, and the treatise
on cookery by Chiquart. He is, too, the author of many articles and other
writings on French philology.
READERSHIP
This is an academic study. It will interest bibliographers and students
of cookery, literature, and history.
The index is available as a pdf file. |
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LA VARENNE’S COOKERY
THE FRENCH COOK;
THE FRENCH PASTRY CHEF;
THE FRENCH CONFECTIONER
François Pierre de la Varenne
A Modern English Translation and Commentary by
TERENCE SCULLY
These three books by François Pierre de la Varenne (c. 1615–1678),
who was chef to the Marquis d’Uxelles, are the most important French cookery
books of the seventeenth century. It was the first French cookery book
of any substance since Le Viandier almost 300 years before, and it ran
to thirty editions in 75 years. The reason for its success was simply;
it was the first book to record and embody the immense advances which French
cooking had made, largely under the influence Italy and the Renaissance,
since the fifteenth century. Some characteristics of medieval cookery are
still visible, but many have disappeared. New World ingredients make their
entrance. A surprising number of recipes for dishes still made in modern
times (omelettes, beignets, even pumpkin pie) are given. The watershed
from medieval to modern times is being crossed under our eyes in La Varenne’s
pages.
So important was this book that English cooks of the time immediately
bought copies and one (anonymous) even translated it into English in the
middle of the Puritan rule of Oliver Cromwell. This translation, as is
the original, is extremely difficult to understand: there are difficult
words, omissions, mistranslations, and other opacities. Terence Scully
has solved all modern readers’ problems by undertaking a modern translation
with detailed commentary of the original French texts. His work takes cognisance
of the early English translation, as well as not ignoring contemporary
works available to those early cooks for purposes of comparison and contrast.
Even French people will want to buy it for what he tells us of the workings
of the French kitchen in the seventeenth century. |
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