The Meal

Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2001

Edited by Harlan Walker

book cover

272 pp; 172 x 246 mm; b&w illustrations; paperback 

ISBN 0907325 242 £30.00

This volume of papers presented at the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery follows the pattern of previous collections. The Symposium entitled Food and Memory was held in September 2000 at Saint Antony’s College, Oxford under the joint chairmanship of Alan Davidson and Dr. Theodore Zeldin.
   Again the success of the symposium resulted in the number of papers being such that it has not been possible to publish them all.
   We must also mention the talk by Daphne Derven about the American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts which will open in Napa, California in November 2001. Its purpose will be to explore the distinctly American contribution to the character of wine and food in close association with the arts and humanities. She quoted Bran Ferren on the subject of museums and similar organisations connected with history as it is involved with physical activities: “The ability to effectively establish and understand context, both sensory context, as well as, historical context... is what institutions do...people go there because they are taking something valuable away with them.”. She hoped that many of the people who come to our symposium may visit and perhaps take part in the activities of this new center.

       Harlan Walker
        June 2001


Contents

Folk Mexican Street Food and the Morality of the Meal; Joy Adapon
Hunting for Breakfast in Medieval and Early Modern Europe; Ken Albala
The Funerary Meal in the Cult of the Dead in Classical Roman Religion; Joan P Alcock
Food in the Passover Seder; Michael Ashkenazi
The German-Texan Meal 1285-2001; Gwen Barclay
Dining by Design; Peter Brown
The Flattest Meal - Pancakes in the Dutch Lowlands; Janny de Moor
The Oyster Supper; Dorothy Duncan
The Filipino Meal: Swift, Slow; Sweet, Sour; Adazzle, Dim; Doreen G. Fernandez and Pia Lim Castillo
The Middle to Late Sixteenth-Century English Upper-Class Meal; Judy Gerjuoy
Moretum - a Peasant Lunch Revisited; Christopher Grocock and Sally Grainger
A Thousand Years of Japanese Banquets; Richard Hosking
Perpetual Picnics - The Meal in the UAE; Philip Iddison
Structuring the Meal: the Revolution of Service à la Russe; Cathy K Kauman
Ring the Doorbell with your Elbow: a Light-hearted Look at the American Potluck Meal; Mary Wallace Kelsey
Meals and Mealtimes, 1600-1800; Gilly Lehmann
Being American: an Arab American Thanksgiving; William G. Lockwood and Yvonne R. Lockwood
The Fine Art of Eighteenth-Century Table Layouts; Fiona Lucraft
The Medieval Arab Meal, East and West; Charles Perry
African American Meals from Slavery to Soul Food; Tracy N Poe
A Sumptuous Meal: Navigating the Laws Restricting Wedding Banquets of Fourteenth-century Florence; Eden Rain
Lust, Fear and Loathing on the Village Green; Gillian Riley
Meals and Morality; Barbara Santich
Manners Maketh the Meal: Table Etiquette in England and Iran; Margaret Shaida
A Northern Gourmet: Benjamin Newton on the Move, 1816-1818; Layinka M Swinburne
From Menu, to Recipe, to Meal: a Renaissance Wedding Banquet; David S Walddon
Colonel Hawker Tells How to Get a Decent Meal with a Bad Cook and Poor Ingredients; Harlan Walker
Charles Fourier (1772-1837) and the Phalansterian Banquet; Bee Wilson
Drink in the Structure of the Meal: Middle Eastern Patterns; Sami Zubaida

Other Papers Given at the Symposium

As in previous years, it has not been possible to include all the papers presented in Oxford in this volume. This in no way implies that the papers excluded are of inferior quality; several of them will be or have been published elsewhere. 

Michael Abdalla

Perpetuated in Tradition: The Role of Wheat Products in the Narratives of the Contemporary Assyrians

Proverbs, aphorisms, maxims and metaphors about food and particularly about bread.

Gwen Barclay

The Taste and Flavor of Memory

The role of flavourings and seasonings in the enjoyment and recognition of memorable foods.

Carol A. Déry

Memories in Stone – Pompeii and the Archeology of Eating

The importance of Pompeii in the field of food history

James G. Ferguson Jnr.

"Do This in Remembrance": Ritual Observance as the "Rough Ground" of Memory

The transmission, preservation and authentication of food practices derived from ritual religious observances.

Doreen G. Fernandez

Sulipan Cuisine: Food in Active Memory

A description of the feasts and parties held in Sulipan at the end of the 19th century. Sulipan no longer exists, but its memory and influence remain.

Lyons Filmer

"In My Mother’s Kitchen"

The author, a producer and speaker on radio in the United States, describes his experience with this programme as narrator and interviewer. He stresses the spiritual value in the sensual pleasure of satisfying our hunger.

Dr. Annie Hauck-Lawson

When Memories Stir the "Food Voice"

A study of our personal foodways that the author calls food voices. She focusses on people’s memories and their food meanings and practices.

Karen Karp

Memory: A Living Procession through Time

The author describes the importance of memory for both owners and customers in restaurants. She goes on to consider recent practices in agriculture and the isolation that this has caused between producers and consumers and the breakdown brought about in this valuable memory. 

Carolyn Nadeau

Of Weddings and Funerals: Dining in Tirso de Molina’s "The Trickster of Seville"

A consideration of the themes of honour, loyalty and justice and also social values in the first Don Juan play, written in early 17th century Spain. 

Ambeth R. Ocampo

The Malolos Banquet: Food as Historical Document

A description of the luncheon and dinner given on 29 September 1898 on the occasion of the Solemne Reatificacion de la Independencia of the Philippines. Both meals demonstrated a "tasteless display of wealth" "even in the midst of war."

Ann Rycraft

"They know it well enough": The Medieval English Cook’s Memory

A consideration of how cooks learned their trade studied from the very scanty records of the 12th to the 15th century.

Shlomith Samish 

Early Memories of Feeding and Eating Experiences: A Powerful Tool for Exploring Interactions

The study of these memories and experiences can be helpful in such areas as parenting classes, overweight classes, working with feeding and eating problems, psychological sessions, early childhood seminars, etc.

Colin Spencer

A Collective Memory?

Is our evolutionary diet still remembered in our genes?

David Sutton

Global Food: Memory Destroyer?

The availability of foods irrespective of season and from anywhere in the world challenges local knowledge and memories. This question is studied in the island of Kalymnos.

Barbara A. West

"Our Grandmothers said, ‘If there’s sugar, flour and lard in the pantry, then there’s no problem’": Food, nostalgic discourse and the construction of memory in postsocialist Hungary

The effect in Hungary of the collapse of socialism on the way of life of women. The role of women’s magazines is particularly studied.

Carolin C. Young

Le Songe de Vaux

The magnificent entertainment given by Nicolas Fouquet at Vaux-le-Vicomte in 1661 not only caused Fouquet’s downfall but also demonstrated the use that can be made of such lavish entertainment as a tool of state.
 


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