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The whole Body of COOKERY DISSECTED (1682) |
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| William Rabisha
A facsimile of the 1682 edition, with glossary 389 pp; 216 x 138 mm; hardback ISBN 0907325110 £25.00 (published December 2003) |
The restoration of King Charles II in 1660 saw many chefs
and servants of the returning nobility back at their stoves cooking as
if the Civil War had never occurred. William Rabisha was ‘Master Cook to
many honourable Families before and since the wars began’; ‘His Broths,
Pottages, to the taste and sight, would Esau-like, make some to sell their
right.’ Although little is known about his life and career, he was evidently
brought up in the service of a noble household, which ‘spared no cost or
charge’ in his instruction and education. He left Britain during the Commonwealth
and evidently worked at the Royal court while it was in exile.
His cookery book went through five editions and this current volume
is a facsimile of the 1682 printing. The text is a remarkable statement
of the art of cookery as it was in the 1660s, and proved to be surprisingly
influential over a very long period: there are examples of wholesale borrowing
from his recipes as late as the middle of the eighteenth century. Of course,
he himself was not innocent of light-fingered loans from earlier authors
as well as using his book for conservative, revivalist ends. Hence his
recycling of a treatise on carving that started its life in the fifteenth
century, and his printing of an order of feasting from that same period.
All this was so ‘that thou maist see what Liberality and Hospitality there
was in Antient times amongst our Progenitors: Thus hoping to see Liberality
flourish amongst us once more, as in old time’.
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